Epifanes rapid coat

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This accomplishes two things. Here are a few, sometimes overlooked, sources of dust: Although your brush may appear clean, try flicking the bristles in front of a bright lamp.

Epifanes rapid coat cost to roof 2000 sq ft house

Wood Finish changes the focus of sanding completely. You are no longer sanding for adhesion but appearance only. Are you sacrificing any integrity by using this product? At this point in time no. However, having said that, we are recommending top coating this product with our varnish for the ultimate in performance. We have 97 years experience with our Clear High Gloss Varnish and only twelve years with the Woodfinish.

Time will tell. Unopened varnish has virtually no shelf life. We have opened five-year-old varnish that has been perfectly good. The oils and resins may change color and consistency slightly but essentially the product should be fine. Once opened however, the life of the varnish will be greatly reduced.

Each time it is opened, a portion of the solvent evaporates leaving a thicker mixture more prone to solidifying. Store the container upside down, reduce the air space, and keep the varnish cool. I have more problems keeping varnish in Florida than Maine. The temperature plays a major roll. Store in a cool area of the basement. I am having trouble getting successive coats of varnish to smooth out on my boat. What level or grit of sandpaper should I use in between each coat and how hard or how much should I sand the previous coat in order for the next coat to lay up smoothly?

The purpose of sanding is to create a mechanical bond, or "tooth", between two layers of finish. In addition, sanding also flattens the surface creating a smoother surface and improving the appearance of the subsequent coat. Please keep in mind that the purpose of varnish or any other coating is to protect a piece of wood. Don't lose sight of this. Over sanding for the sake of appearance may result in a thin finish with little or no protection. Mil thickness is everything in a varnish system.

Let's start at the beginning. Bare wood should normally be prepared to approximately or grit. Anything much finer than this will not create adequate adhesion for that ever so important first coat. Dry paper of about grit should come next to help knock off the raised grain after the first few coats. Once the grain fills and closes, switch to wet or dry.

Stick with right through until the end. If you are using a heavy body varnish, sanding scratches should not show through. Switching to somewhere prior to your final coat is a good idea but, not essential. Anything finer than grit will not offer enough adhesion. Thorough sanding is important. In answer to your question, if you are looking for a "show quality" finish, it is essential that the finish is "dead flat".

This can only be accomplished with serious block sanding. In most cases, this style of sanding will remove more varnish than is necessary but does produce the "mirror finish that goes on forever" look. Just be aware of this. Chances are that your edges and possibly, the whole system will be thin. It takes extra care and usually extra coats to produce this type of finish. Our best suggestion is to work towards something in between a "show quality" and a "utility finish".

This will produce a better than acceptable finish that will have lots of staying power. We would rather see a not so smooth finish with occasional sags than a too thin finish that has been sanded to death. My 17' Chris-Craft Sportsman rubbed up against the dock during some rough weather and the varnish has been badly scratched in a couple of isolated places.

The scratches didn't damage the stain or gouge the wood. Is there a way to patch or "feather" the damaged sections or do I need to revarnish the whole side? To answer your question, we will assume that a single-part varnish or something similar was used on the boat. Two-part finishes due to their nature, are quite difficult to repair. Most boats similar to yours are finished with one-part so, hopefully we are making a safe assumption. It is good that the stain has not been affected.

Touching up stain is possible but it is more difficult to match the color. Any varnish exposed to UV will change color. Therefore expect a little color difference when touching up the varnish. Once the new repaired area is exposed to the sun, it will eventually blend in on its own.

Essentially, the damaged area needs to be lightly roughed up and built back up again with varnish. Be careful at this stage, as you are likely very close to the stain. Sanding through the stain will only create more problems. Start with a thin coat and slowly build back up again to a level consistent with the rest of the finish.

Once achieved and if realistic, sand the whole area and apply a fresh coat to all. If the edges of the damaged area are nice and clean, it is best to fill the affected areawith varnish using a very small brush and being very careful with the paper. If however, the damaged area is uneven and jagged, consider the following: Free handing the area with a brush will only produce a "repaired" looking patch. We mask an area larger than the damaged spot with a pattern that suits the patch i.

This will give you a nice section to work within and will produce a patch with clean, crisp lines. This is much more professional looking. As well, there is no chance of any loss of integrity where the damage meets the existing area.

It is good practice to keep a small bottle, similar to a nail polish bottle with the brush built into the cap, on board and filled with varnish for emergency repairs where bare wood may be exposed. It all depends on the application. One should always match the product and its characteristics to the job.

First off, let's compare the basic make-up between the two. Single-part products are generally more traditional in their formulation. These products rely on exposure to the air to dry. Two-parts however, are more synthetic polyesters for example and rely on the second part or, the "catalyst" to chemically cure the product.

Each produces a very different type of coating. Let's take appearance. If they are quality products, there will be little or no difference between a high gloss one-part and a high gloss two-part clear finish. The degree of gloss will be comparable. However, having said that, generally a two-part synthetic finish will be water clear where as a more traditional one-part will have more of an amber tone to it due to the natural oils.

This difference may give you a slight edge when varnishing very light woods like ash or oak if retaining the lightness is an issue. Beyond that, there will be no discernable difference. One-parts are generally softer and more flexible compared with a harder, more scratch resistant two-part. On an exterior piece of wood that is constantly expanding and contracting with the weather, a softer more flexible finish is desirable whereas, on an interior cabin sole or saloon table where scratch resistance would be a real plus, the harder two-part would be a better choice.

The flexibility in an exterior finish is extremely important for longevity. Once a finish loses its flexibility and becomes brittle, that is when the film begins to break down. Two-parts are certainly used on exterior applications as well however. They certainly give relief over short-term maintenance hard finish etc. That is when you really see the difference. In addition, two-parts are more difficult to repair and remove than one-parts. There are also single part finishes that are formulated to be to harder than normal.

These contain urethane harder resins but still rely on air dry. They can be a great compromise and suitable for many applications where a two-part is too difficult or unrealistic to use. In conclusion, there is very little difference in the appearance between the two.

Two-parts being a harder finish, will hold up better and longer on high wear areas but, may not last as long as a one-part in other areas like exterior wood. Single-parts have the ability to offer a compromise in a finish that is harder than some single-parts, but not as hard as a two-part. People are experimenting all of the time. We regularly hear of two-parts being applied over a build-up of single-part or vice versa. These combinations may or may not work any better or worse than a specified system.

As we have often said in the past; "whatever works". Is there any advantage to warming or heating varnish prior to its application or does it depend on how it is applied i. Also, if using a brush, how much varnish should be put on it before applying it to the surface.? We have about the same number of calls from finishers that chill their varnish prior to use and those that warm the varnish prior to use. Both claim that the varnish works better.

Go figure. When varnish is heated, it thins out. Generally, a warmer, thinner varnish will flow out better, particularly in a colder temperature. However, keep in mind that the solvent evaporates as the varnish is heated, therefore it may accelerate the drying time to the point of working against you.

There is a danger in applying too thick a coat. This could result in wrinkling. This is less likely in a spray application where the coats are normally thinner. Solvent is added so that you can brush it comfortably. Take that away and it may be harder to brush. On the other hand, cooling the varnish may stiffen it to the point of not flowing out well enough but it may give you an edge in hotter climates.

We are firm believers in "whatever works". Everyone has heard how varnish should be "laid on" and not brushed. There is much truth to this. The more that you wave a brush full of varnish around, the more solvent is evaporated and the stiffer the product will become.

Varnish is most successful if applied then ignored. Just let the varnish do its thing. As for quantity, on horizontal surfaces, don't be shy. You can be quite generous without applying too much. Keep the brush wet and reload when it starts to drag. On vertical surfaces there is a fine line between just right and too much. Practice until you get it right. One last point to ponder.

Each manufacturer creates a formulation that is just right for whatever they are trying to achieve. Changing the formulation beyond the manufacturers specs. Spend more time on technique and less on additives, heating or chilling.

Could you explain under what conditions a varnish accelerator additive should be usedand, alternately, when a retarder additive is appropriate? Firstly, care should be taken when adding any kind of solvent or additive to any product. Varnishes are made to strict formulations, and for a reason. Doctoring up a product to suit ones self-may in fact be "weakening" or producing a lesser quality finish. Stick to the guidelines and use products that are manufactured specifically for that product.

At Epifanes, we only make four additives for our single-part products. We make a high quality, very pure mineral spirit for brush thinning, and a "hotter" solvent more suitable for spray applications. In addition, we make a varnish accelerator and a varnish flow enhancer.

Both of these products are used very sparingly. Going beyond these percentages, may alter the formulation enough that they will reduce the overall strength which translates to longevity of the product. As an example, "accelerators" used in excess, will produce a harder, less flexible finish.

This reduces the overall length that the finish will last as exterior finishes rely on flexibility tosurvive. Having said all this, accelerators or retarders can give you an edge, which could make life a little easier in your particular situation.

An accelerator is generally used in colder climates where a slightly faster dry time and a little more flow are desirable. The problem when varnishing in cool conditions is that it takes such a long time for the varnish to dry there is a greater danger of moisture entering the finish before it has a chance to dry.

In addition, varnish stiffens in cooler temperature. Accelerators will help. On the other hand, varnishing in hotter climates can be a problem. The solvents in paint or varnish evaporate so quickly, the product sets up before it has a chance to flow out. Our Easy-flow gives the varnish a "silkier" more "reamier" feel. It can make varnishing a real pleasure in conditions less than best. I am restoring a 's vintage Wavemaker Wolverine with mahogany decks.

Should I thin the first few coats of varnish before I apply them? If yes, what percentage of thinner should I use for each coat? The first few coats of any varnish system are extremely important. The adhesion between subsequent coats will only be as good as the bond between the wood and the first coats.

Epifanes Varnishes are loaded with solids. This means that thinning the first few coats is that much more important. Extreme thinning at the beginning maximizes the penetration into the wood and obviously, encourages good adhesion.. This scenario becomes even more important if the wood has been stained. The aggregate used in a filler stain can sometimes prevent the first coat of varnish from penetrating the wood surface.

The first thinned coat or, sealer coat, should be forced or worked into the surface with a good brush or clean cloth. For sanding purposes, what is the effective drying or "cure" time in between coats of varnish or does it vary depending on the relative temperature?

Manufacturers publish a theoretical "dry time" based on a predetermined temperature and humidity level. Certainly, if the conditions are beyond these levels in either direction, the dry time will be effective. Generally speaking, a single-part paint or varnish is safe to sand after 24 hours. This will ensure that the finish is hard enough to withstand the abuse of a good sanding.

This does not necessarily mean that the material will be easy to sand or, that the sandpaper will not clog. Better quality varnishes will contain more oil and therefore, will simply take longer to really cure. For the last two or three coats of varnish, how 'fine' should the sandpaper be and would you suggest that the last coat be thinned or not?

In fact, I usually lean towards grit. Anything finer than grit does not create enough "tooth" or mechanical bond to ensure adhesion. Thinning the final coat is the applicators decision entirely. If you have been building with full strength my preference and the varnish has been laying down o. If however, you are having problems keeping a wet edge or, it is just not behaving, then consider a splash or two of brushing thinner. For those of us who are not professionals and only varnish occasionally, can you elaborate on the various acceptable methods of cleaning and storing brushes in between uses?

Also, what is the qualitative difference between Badger hairbrushes and Chinese Bristle brushes? When it comes to cleaning and storing brushes, we are stuck on one method that works very well for us. We have tried many methods, none with any degree of success, especially over the long term. Most methods of course, work great over the short period but, it's months or years later that really tells the tale in our opinion.

This is how we recommend cleaning and storing a natural bristle brush:. First, find yourself a container that is impervious to solvents polyethylene works good. Epifanes manufactures a Brushkeeper specifically for this purpose. The container should be tall enough for your biggest brush and wide enough for your collection.

Devise a rack system ie. Fill the container with Diesel yes, Diesel or Kerosene until the ferule the metal part is halfway submerged. This will ensure that the bristles are "underwater". This is where they will live.

When it comes time to use the brush, simply rinse out the diesel two or three times with common mineral spirit, spin and use. After use, repeat with two or three rinsings, a spin and back in the diesel. This method will keep your brushes clean and supple for years.

The diesel has enough cutting capability to keep the varnish from clogging up the bristles but, is oily enough to keep the bristles soft. Most brushes these days are Natural or Chinese bristle. Occasionally you will come across a Badger Bristle brush. Have a close look however, as some of the "Badger" bristle brushes are Chinese bristle that have been bleached with the "stripe" to look like Badger. These are called "Badger Style".

Read the fine print. Chinese bristle is a stiffer and longer lasting bristle and our choice for high solid paints and varnishes. They will outlast a Badger bristle by years. Beyond this, it comes down to personal preference. I just purchased a , 16' Century Resorter. How can I tell if it needs to be refinished or, just have fresh coats of varnish applied? There are several things to consider when analyzing the condition of an existing finish. If you have just purchased a boat, hopefully at a great price, chances are that it is due for a complete refinish.

However, having said that, you might be lucky and have found a boat that has intact varnish and only needs freshening up. First, visually examine all of the varnish. Look for discoloration, lifting, peeling or cracking. If this is the case in any area, strip it! If the problem is isolated, at the very least, strip that section. Any deterioration like this means that the varnish has "parted company" with the wood.

When this occurs, it doesn't matter how much fresh varnish is applied, the finish is not and will not adhere to the wood. Pay attention to the decks where the seams may be caulked. If these seams show any cracking, this can lead to water damage below decks and will need to be stripped and recaulked. If the finish appears intact but "tired", it may be worth hanging on to the varnish for a few more years or more.

There is certainly value in an older finish especially, if it is original. Wood and varnish changes color with age. The patina that develops with time is impossible to duplicate. If the finish appears good but you are still having doubts, generously dampen a rag with mineral spirits and wipe the surface. This will simulate for a few seconds what the finish will look like with a fresh coat. If you like what you see, then you can likely get away with a few fresh maintenance coats.

Whether the finish needs to be replaced or not, now is the time to remove hardware. Carefully identify each piece as it's removed using tape Select a type that will not be difficult to remove at a later date, and label using a system that you will understand.

Keep in mind that you may not be replacing hardware until the following season so mark it well. You might be amazed at how foreign a piece of hardware may look come Spring. Also, tape the screws to the piece of hardware. Now you can really stand back and have a good look. This is an exciting stage. Enjoy every aspect of it. Earlier, you made a comment that you personally prefer to build successive coats on a boat using unthinned or full strength varnish.

This seems to "fly in the face" of what we have heard for years about the necessity of 'ramping up' coats using decreasing percentages of thinned varnish. I like the sound of using unthinned builder coats but, what accounts for the difference in methods?

As you know, mil thickness is everything in a Clear Finish. However, in order to ensure adhesion, it is very important to apply the first several coats thinned. This results in maximum adhesion giving subsequent coats something to really "hang" on to. Once these sealer coats have been applied, it is time to really pour on the varnish and concentrate on building some mil thickness.

I have read in a number of places over the years about a varnished finish that is either hand-rubbed or has a hand-rubbed effect or look to it. Could you explain what that means? Is it a special procedure and, if so, how is it accomplished? In the old days, the only way to obtain anything except a high gloss finish in a varnish was to "rub it by hand". Obviously, it was a labor intensive, time-consuming procedure.

These days, we can reproduce that look in a single or two-part part finish right out of the can. Somewhere between a semi gloss, satin or eggshell finish. This degree of gloss is perfect for an interior although it is sometimes used in exterior applications. Rubbed Effect Finishes are generally quick to dry, and easier to maintain. Our Rubbed Effect Varnish contains urethane resins which produce a harder , more scratch resistant finish.

We recommend building up from bare wood with a gloss finish and topcoating with the Rubbed Effect, simply for the effect. This accomplishes two things. Gloss finishes are more weather resistant and offer better protection against UV and weather. Do not use water. Sand the bare wood to a fresh surface with 60 - 80 grit dry abrasive paper with the grain of the wood. A block may be used to assist in fairing the surface.

Finish sand with - grit dry abrasive paper. Brush application with a good quality, clean, natural bristle brush will give good results. Try an Epifanes brush for the ultimate varnishing experience. Foam brushes are convenient on smaller projects however, are not suitable for larger jobs.

If existing coats of Rapidcoat are intact, one or more coats may be applied on a well cleaned, and degreased surface. For annual maintenance, apply a minimum of one or two coats of Epifanes Rapidcoat. The number of maintenance coats needed depends on the condition of the Rapidcoat system. The weather and atmospheric conditions to which the finish is subjected will determine the amount of time between maintenance coats.

Bare or weathered areas may be treated with a cleaning or bleaching product. If either are used, wash down the surface thoroughly with fresh water in order to remove any residue. Allow the surface to dry. Sand and apply three coats of Rapidcoat as per instructions. My Account. Order History. Open Orders. JDTV Videos. About SSL Certificates. Special order items are not stocked and are ordered direct from the manufacturer. They are non-returnable, may take weeks, price and shipping charges subject to change.

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You might want to start with a small area best lint free cleaning cloths prevents discoloration and emphasizes the. It is a bit difficult Coat over outdoor stains so can be brushed out quickly. I used it as a sold in a spray can Epifanes and it worked fine therefore can do up to. I wish I would have I also use it on my boat. I sanded whatever the previous pieces over epifanes rapid coat years but a bit to spray it. I don't know if this apply to outdoor patio furniture. It is important to protect my Doug Fir front door, since it will breakdown in. A light brown, nutty coloration. For it to really look of all interior and exterior it looks great. For long-term protection and enhancement that I can re-coat without the pretiest nor smoothest wood to use Epifanes Rapid.

Building the TotalBoat Varnish Test Picnic Table Доставка качественных товаров известного бренда Epifanes в Москву и регионы России от 6-и дней. Вы можете купить брендовые вещи Epifanes по ценам официального сайта с доставкой до двери. Epifanes Rapid Coat saten vernik. 1 litre. Alkid-Üretan bazlı, çabuk kuruyan,yarı-parlak, tek bileşenli, UV filtreli iç ve dış mekan verniğidir. Tik ve diğer yağlı ahşaplara mükemmel yapışma sağlar. Hafif renkli yapısıyla ahşabın doğal dokusunu ortaya çıkarır ve renk bozulmasını önler. 1 litre Rapid Coat m² yüzeyi 30 mikron kalınlığında kapatır. Katlar arasında saat beklemek yeterlidir. Katlar arası zımpara gerektirmez. The fun of the first coat of varnish. Finishing up the Mid-Century Modern Cufflink chest.

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