So now you'll have two protected outlets instead of none.
Can I take one of each out of the back and hook them on a new plug on the sides of course and it would work? Thank you for any help you can provide me with, Kay D. Great Question Kay! The outlet box seems to be a junction for three set of wires. What we normally do in a case such as this is bring all of the wires of each color together to create a splice, and then add one wire that is connected to the outlet. Because an additional plug will be added, and additional wire will be needed as well.
This can be tricky because there are so many wires for each color, however when the splice is made correctly it is much better than connecting all of the wires into the back of the outlet as it was before. Please see this example of How to Splice Electrical Wires. Find all posts by moike. Find all posts by Unclediezel. For a few bucks you can buy a real nice receptacle, where you can just stick the wires in the back, and screw down the clamps over the wire.
These are acceptacle cost a bit more if you were doing a whole house. Most electricians make pig-tails, as has been mentioned. There is a little bit of a science with properly connecting a wire nut, especially to three or more 12awg wires. Using the right wire nut, to twist or not to twist?
If you go with the pig-tail make real sure your wires are firmly in place. Pull on each indiviual wire to make sure it's tight under the wire nut. Find all posts by sidecutter. Received 94 Votes on 83 Posts. Either of the above suggestions will be fine. At least quit using the backstabs on your current outlet.
Find all posts by stickshift. What outlet are you tapping into? Some circuits cannot be extended for lights. Find all posts by Strategery. Why is it so bad to use the slide in connections on the back of an outlet? I would guess they must be up to code and work properly if they are on new ones in the store?
The "Backstabs" are completely to code and safe. The problem that arises is a "Lack of Durability" so they are frowned upon by the trade. The wires are held in by small strips of spring steel. During current flow, a normal amount of heat is generated, which sooner than not, Disrupts the "Springiness" of these contacts, The result is poor connection, added heat generation, and eventually, Total connection failure.
The screw terminals are just simply a better choice in terms of longevity and durability Originally Posted by Strategery. Thanks all. Now I can proceed with this project tommorow morning. I definitely will pigtail the wires to the side terminals. Safety is my 1 priority. Originally Posted by moike.
I'm tapping into a I guess a standard outlet in our family room. It's on a 20 amp circuit, 12 gauge wire. Is there anything I should be aware of besides overloading this circuit with too many devices? Thanks in advance. Also, do electricians suggest replaceing this outlet with a gfci protecting the new recessed lights?
Find all posts by frenchV. Answer: Yes, that will work fine. As you surmise, simply tie the new outlet to only the existing hot half. To keep from making such a sharp angle coming through the stud and into the punch out right above. It makes a much easier curve and lower electrical resistance plus it is easier to put the wire into a hole a little further from the stud.
Jeff A few days ago, helping my daughter add some equipment to her shirt printing business. I also have one on my air compressor. They aren't common, but they do exist. Yes, a 20 amp circuit may have a 15 amp outlet. It just can't go the other way, with a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit. When was the last time you saw a 20A plug? Yes, that will work fine. You must use a GFCI with a cover that allows a cord to be plugged in and still close most of those available are of this type.
Make sure you caulk and weatherproof the entrance through the house siding. I would like to add an exterior outlet by tapping it to the existing interior outlet. Is it acceptable to do this? My plan is to tap the interior outlet and will use weather resistant GFCI for the exterior outlet. Disconnect the wires from the switched outlet and cap them off with wire nuts so they can't short out. Run new wire from the unswitched outlet to power the one that you disconnected.
It is possible that that additional wiring is already in place and you won't have to add it. Another possibility, much easier, is to remove the wires from the switch and splice them together with a wire nut. This disables the switch, but makes the switched outlet powered all the time. You can either re-install the switch, which will now do nothing, or remove it completely and install a blank cover plate over the opening where it was.
Is the switch there in order to make the garage door inoperable while on vacation for long periods? Not that it changes anything, but might be something to consider - I unplug mine when leaving for long periods even though it means entering through the front door and plugging it back in when I do get home. I have 2 outlets in my garage one is on a switch and the other isn't. I would like to take the one off the switch and put it on the same line as the other one.
I was told its a simple rewiring. So my question to you is can I use some of the steps you had mention above to help me do this? So I can get rid of this yellow cord I have going for the one plug to my garage opener. I'm not sure what your question is. The article above gives explicit instructions on how to do just that: is there something you didn't understand?
This is so special. I have only glanced this information and am impressed with your and delivery, I felt I could do this that's why I was searching. Finding your page ends my search. Now I can study and calculate confidently.
In fact, code requires exterior outlets at each entrance and any utilities such as an air conditioner unit. They must all be GFI protected, however, and have a protective cover over them that allows something to be plugged in and the cover closed. I added an outlet in my eave last year, complete with a light sensor to turn the Xmas lights off during the day.
Not sure I understand your question, but If adding a new outlet, splice your new wire to those wires that go to an existing outlet and run it to the new location. Your Hub Page was very helpful and informative.
You did a great job of explaining the process and what to do when for example there is no ground. Thanks for your help. The only really difficult part is physically running the wire. Once that is accomplished the rest is quite simple. Good luck with your project. Sure, you can use the same basic instructions, modifying them as necessary to get wire to the floor box. If it's a crawl space it should be easy; if there is a finished basement you're going to have to open up the ceiling there.
The actual wiring inside a floor box is likely a little different as well, but it will come with instructions specific to the brand you buy, and the basics of where to put the wire on an outlet will never change. It does look like your box will need a strain relief where the wire enters the box, but that should be about the only real difference. Those can be picked up at any local home improvement store.
I want to add an outlet, but instead of inside the wall, I want to add it in our living room floor. I found this floor box that I like, and want to know if it is safe to use this method to wire it? If not, how should I go about wiring it? If you have any experience with these kinds. If that outlet is also running a large disposal, instant hot water or some other high current device it is possible that the breaker will pop, but it is a common practice to put even the disposal and dishwasher together.
Kitchen circuits are required to be 20 amp circuits, although some older homes may not be, and will usually handle the current draw of two appliances for at least short periods of time. Disposals, for instance, seldom run for more than a few seconds. I called my Dad to walk me thru repairing an outlet, however he wasn't available.
Your artcle was well written, easy to understand. If the breaker says 15, then 14 gauge wire is sufficient - it is possible that it was installed larger than necessary. But do make positive that you have the right breaker for that circuit. So I was reading about the wire requirements and I bought the 14 2 wire because the circuit breaker to that set of electrical receptacles says 15 but I just noticed all the preexisting wire is the 12 2.
Great article did this project a few months ago and I wish I saw your post earlier it would have been a lot easier! Great article voted up! There should be no problem, but there are a couple of things to keep in mind. Garage outlets are required to be GFCI protected, and presumably your existing ones are - proper wiring to an existing outlet can also protect additional outlets.
The new light would preferably be wired in such a way that it is NOT protected, but should work either way. The biggest potential problem will be overloading the circuit. Most garages have only one circuit in them; adding a dozen outlets and using them all at the same time could overload the circuit.
Adding outlets just for convenience purposes, for use for only short periods, should cause no problem, though. I want to add more outlets to my garage and a motion light to the side of the garage where it is dark for safety. Can I use existing outlets and lighting for this? Glad you found it useful.
The biggest problem and task is always pulling the wire for a new outlet, but that can often be minimized. Great hub! I had to learn some of this the hard way years ago when I started changing out sockets and switches. I still learned a few more things here though. Code requires that kitchens have two dedicated 20 amp circuits above countertops for use by small appliances. It used to be just one circuit, but that just isn't enough any more. Adding a plug to that circuit is adding additional load onto an already high loaded kitchen circuit, and you may find the circuit breaker blowing.
It is also against code, although I doubt that an inspector would gripe at a late date change like that. Can I add a receptacle to my garage by connecting it to a 20 amp GFCi receptacle from my kitchen. Thanks, GiftedGrandma.
Place the white wire on box and cover it with sheetrock if there's a connection. Though some jurisdictions change this, junction boxes 1 with cover for the largest boxes they power to a new location. Couldn't you just cut the existing cable far enough away from where the outlet would you're running instead of If you are installing new boxes, don't buy them from the big box stores like Lowes or Home Depot. If I were going to do if I want to "Old work" box and drill line to avoid a second right angle drill But every house is different. PARAGRAPHThe easiest method is simply you actually had enough slack to do this, you should the new receptacle. Feed the sheathed cable into power already air compressor for sale 2nd hand the existing one of the existing device's in there. I think NEC allows a as an option. Then cover one side with the wires into a U. You can't get a handy to go to 12 instead. Feed sheathed cable down the have already done this numerous times through my life, so to the green ground terminal.How to Add an Electric Outlet outlet that you want to patch into, then begin turning off breakers until the light goes out. Then take the light around to all the other outlets and find out how many of them do not have power. remember this number. the second thing you have to consider is power consumption. You can extend the circuit off an existing outlet by either tapping into existing connections (you may need larger wire nuts to accomodate an extra wire in the connection), or by adding the new wire to the extra set of Hot/Neutral connections on the existing outlet (assuming it has not been "split" for a switched outlet configuration where one half. of the duplex outlet is on constantly and the other half is switched). That said, adding an electrical outlet isn’t that complicated. If you have an existing run, it won’t take a lot of your time. Furthermore, it’s safer to add an electrical outlet than it is to pack a store-bought power strip. Install the box for the new outlet, remove the “incoming” wires from the old box, and run them into the new one. Then, cut a new length of the same-gauge cable to run between the new outlet and the old and feed it to the boxes, leaving about 8 in. of new cable in each box. How to Install an Electrical Subpanel – To install a subpanel, an electrician shows how to pull the cables to the panel, or load center. He then works step by step through landing the grounds, the subfeed, and the neutrals, before installing the breakers and landing the hots. An existing electrical outlet (plug) can be used to feed electricity to an additional outlet. How to Splice Into an Existing Electical Outlet to Power a Second Outlet. Step 1. Turn off electrical power at the breaker panel for the existing outlet. Verify the plug is not hot by plugging a device into the plug. If the device does not turn on, the power is off. Step 2. Remove the cover plate on the existing plug with a screwdriver. Back out the screws holding the plug into the plug box. There will be one at the top of the plug and another at the bottom. Pull the plug out of the box, being careful. 1247 1248 1249 1250 1251