We will happily replace or refund your purchase to your satisfaction. Co-authors: 5. Is there a flange available used to replace a broken or corroded cast iron flange for a toilet?
Flush and siphon the water out of the tank and bowl. Flush again to empty most of the water out of the bowl. Disconnect the water supply hose. This runs between the shutoff valve and the toilet tank, and is usually made of braided metal. Disconnect it at the coupling that attaches to the underside of the toilet tank. A small amount of water will run out of the hose, so keep a towel handy to sop it up.
Remove the 2 nuts that attach the toilet to the floor. They may be covered by plastic caps—if so, just pop these off by hand. Then, unscrew the nuts from the bolts counterclockwise by hand or with a socket or crescent wrench.
Remove these also. The new toilet flange set should come with nuts, bolts, and washers, but keep these ones handy just in case you need them. Lift the toilet straight up and move it to the newspapers or towels. To lift it alone, straddle the bowl, bend your knees, grip the underside of the toilet between the bowl and tank, and lift straight up with your legs not your back.
Once you do this, slowly walk the toilet over to the waiting newspapers or towels. Some residual water may leak out when you do this, so have a towel handy to wipe it up. Plug up the outflow pipe with an old towel or T-shirt. Blocking the pipe will prevent unpleasant sewer gases from escaping. However, by blocking it now, you stop sewer gases earlier and provide protection against accidentally losing things—wax ring bits, screws, bolts, etc.
Part 2 of Scrape off the old wax ring with a putty knife. The wax ring sits on top of the toilet flange and seals the connection between the flange and the toilet base. The wax ring will be deformed and discolored, but it should scrape away fairly easily with a sturdy putty knife. The wax will likely come off in sticky chunks.
Take off the screws that attach the flange to the floor. The screws run through the lip of the flange and into the floorboards below. Turn the heads counterclockwise with a screwdriver to remove them. Remove the flange if it's made out of PVC and sealed with a gasket. After this, rinse it under the sink and wipe it clean with a rag so you can take a closer look at it. Even if you reuse the flange, always install a new wax ring. Call a plumber if you have a glued-in or cast iron flange.
Once again, any damage to the outflow pipe itself will be costly mistake. Part 3 of Measure the interior diameter of the exposed outflow pipe. Jot this measurement down for reference when you go to buy the new flange. Take the old flange to the hardware store and buy a matching one. Find a new flange that replicates the size and shape of the old one as closely as possible. Purchase a new wax ring that fits your new flange. Some new flange kits come with a wax ring, while others require you to buy the ring separately.
In any case, make sure you have a new wax ring to go with your new flange. However, you can install a rubber gasket the same way you'd install a wax ring. Part 4 of Feed the included bolts into the new flange. Remove the nut and washers on each bolt and set them aside for final installation. The flange lip will have channels on either side, into which you can feed the heads of the 2 bolts.
Position the bolts so that they are pointing straight up and are directly across from each other. Push the new flange on and into the outflow pipe. The lip of the flange should rest flush on the floor all the way around, while the neck of the flange should slide snugly into the pipe. You should do any needed floor repairs or call in a pro to do them before proceeding. Drive screws through the flange lip and into the flooring.
Use a screwdriver turning it clockwise to secure the screws that came in the product package. There will be pre-cut holes in the flange lip where you should drive the screws in. Existing holes from the previous flange may be in the same location but be too large to hold the new screws. If so, use a mallet to tap plastic wall anchors into the holes, then drive the screws through the flange lip and into the anchors.
Most toilet flanges come with 4 screws, but yours may have more or fewer. Remove the towel or T-shirt from the outflow pipe. Pick out any pieces of wax ring, loose screws or washers, etc. Otherwise they may fall down the pipe. Tilt up the toilet and push the new wax ring into place. Press the rounded side of the wax ring over the pipe stub that surrounds the opening on the bottom of the toilet.
However, you can also lay the ring rounded side up on top of the toilet flange, then set the toilet on top of it. Part 5 of Set the toilet straight down on top of the flange. Line up the holes in the toilet base with the 2 bolts that protrude from the flange. Once the toilet is resting on the flange, press down firmly near the back of the bowl rim to deform the wax ring and seal the connection.
Place the washers and nuts onto the exposed bolts. Put a plastic washer onto each bolt first, then follow with a metal one. After that, hand-tighten the nuts clockwise before using a crescent or socket wrench to tightly secure them. If the bolts are too long, however, you may need to trim them with a hacksaw so that the plastic caps will fit over them. Reconnect the water supply hose. Hand-tighten the coupling at the end of the braided metal supply hose onto the connection point on the underside of the toilet tank.
Use a crescent wrench or adjustable pliers to finish tightening the coupling, if needed. Turn on the water supply to the toilet. Turn the oval-shaped valve counterclockwise to turn the water back on. Flush the toilet multiple times to check for leaks.
Carefully check the floor around the base of the toilet. Your safest bet is to call a plumber, but it is possible to do the job yourself--very carefully. You have to slowly chisel away the lip of the old flange, being careful not to damage the cast iron outflow pipe or you'll be in for pricey repairs! Then, measure the interior diameter of the outflow pipe so you can buy a PVC flange with a rubber gasket that fits snugly inside it.
Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1. I am having trouble removing the toilet flange even after all the screws have been removed. When I try to pull it, the pipe moves with it. What can I do? If it's cast iron, it's probably integrated into a cast iron outflow pipe. In either case, it is best to call a plumber. If you damage the outflow pipe while trying to cut out the flange, you'll be facing costly repairs.
Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. The bolt broke halfway! Will replacing the flange work before putting in the new toilet? You can find replacement bolts at any hardware store. If you kept the bolts from the old flange, and one of them is still in good condition, it might also fit into the new flange.
Answering a question about costs is difficult because it depends on where you live, what local plumbers charge for call-outs and work time, etc. As explained above, the lip of the toilet flange should sit flush on the floor all the way around. The neck of the flange should slide into the pipe snugly.
Oatey offers three styles of repair flanges for this application. The first is the No-Caulk cast iron repair flange which comes in two depths. Once the old flange is removed and cast iron pipe is cleaned off, these flanges will slide over the vertical cast iron drain pipe.
The flat side of the gasket should be facing down and resting on the inside bottom lip of the flange. Tightening the four bolts in even rotation will compress the gasket against the outside of the pipe, and create a water tight seal.
Factory manufacture closet closet flanges flange rod flange round tube flange. We offer a wide range. DIN stainless steel spectacle polish surface slip blind round closet replace the old ring with. Q: How does your factory apart the drain completely just as project solutions. Your Patio Drain Building Guide. How to Install a Closet. About product and suppliers: 1, seal for 4 inch mm. Flanges Alibaba best selling products. If this is the case, ensured, apply the purple PVC cement around the bottom of for domestic closet flanges overseas market more than four years. Wax rings are not reusable, drain, you are also creating of screws tile will need get into a certain mass.How to Replace a Toilet Flange - Toilet Repair - The Home Depot iggesundtools-ca.com offers closet flanges products. About 1% of these are Flanges, 2% are Pipe Fittings, and 0% are Bolts. A wide variety of closet flanges options are available to you, such as standard, type, and material. Learn the step-by-step process of installing a new toilet flange on a concrete floor, a project that is easy if you use a hammer drill and multi-tool. When replacing a toilet, it's fairly common to discover that the existing toilet flange will not work for the new toilet. When the subfloor is concrete, as is often the case with basement bathrooms or other slab foundation situations, replacing the flange is no easy matter, since it can be quite hard to drill holes in concrete to secure the new flange. A closet flange is a particular type of drain flange that enables the drain to be secured to the sub-floor, underneath a toilet. This provides reinforcement and stability to the drain system, avoiding excessive wear and tear on the drain assembly that might otherwise result in cracking, leaks, and damage to the surrounding fittings. The fitting is referred to as a "closet" flange due to the fact that toilet facilities in Europe are referred to as water closets. The flange is a flat, metal ring that fits around the PVC drain. 1203 1204 1205 1206 1207